Pizzeria Orso Chronology: Getting Close Enough to Taste It

By GEORGE SOUTHERN
Falls Church Times Columnist

May 25, 2010

Some people confuse the Falls Church Times online newspaper with a blog. To illustrate the difference, here are some actual blog entries from DonRockwell.com. The subject is Pizzeria Orso, and the blog documents readers’ expectations and long-suffering delays.

Following the blog entries is the latest news on Pizzeria Orso. To cut to the chase, they’ve announced it will open in June (yes – that’s June 2010).

DonRocks (posted 27 February 2008) — Edan Macquaid, long-time pizzaiolo at 2 Amys, is partnering with the owners of 2941 to open a pizzeria in downtown Falls Church. The name is to be determined, and the location is best kept off-the-record for now. This has been in the works for some time, and, at least on paper, has the potential to be one of the most exciting restaurants to open in 2008. Look for Macquaid back in action as a full partner, serving up wood-fired Neapolitan pizza – possibly with DOC status – antipasti, a full selection of beer and wine, possibly a liquor license, an exhibition kitchen, and seating at the bar. Not all details have been resolved, and I don’t wish to overstep my bounds, so this is all I feel comfortable saying for now. Congratulations to everyone involved, and we’ll see you soon.

Scott Johnston (posted 27 February 2008) — What is considered “Downtown Falls Church”? Do you mean old town (intersection of Rt. 7 and 29), do you mean closer to Seven Corners, or do you mean close to Tyson’s? Falls Church seems to spew in several directions.

DonRocks (posted 27 February 2008) — Old town.

Scott Johnston (posted 27 February 2008) — Gosh, do you think it will be better than the landmark Anthony’s? And Zpizza? Falls Church is moving up in the world! . . . All kidding aside, this is great news for everyone involved! I look forward to a opening date in the near future.

DonRocks (posted 12 August 2008) — Now that some of the details have been leaked, I’ll step in and add that the correct name is Pizzeria Orso, not Pizzeria Orzo.

danfishe (posted 21 August 2009) — Anyone know where this project stands?

goodeats (posted 04 December 2009) — A random drive-by showed a nicely-painted sign in the window, at the building marked 400 S. Maple Avenue. This is right “behind” (or to the right of?) the Elevation Burger plaza. I didn’t have a chance to peek inside.

DonRocks (posted 05 December 2009) — Edan, you told me it was Orso, no? Any idea when it’s going to open? Click here for the floor plan (which says Orzo).

pizza man (posted 05 December 2009) — Yeah, It’s Orso, and that’s the floor plan . . . (although I’ve never seen that version before.) *edit* actually, I’ve seen it before, just not the misspelled version. Gotta have somebody fix that. Hopefully construction will start soon.

pizza man (posted 09 March 2010) — Hi, We have a web page up, and a Facebook fan page . . . things are moving along. Check it out, if you want.

Ericandblueboy (posted 09 March 2010) — Finally great pizza in Virginia, and not too far from my house. Is this place going to be a romper room though?

LowellR (posted 09 March 2010) — As long as I can pick up a fabulous pizza and bring it to my house they can populate it with wall-to-wall pigs for all I care.

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OK, if you’ve read this far, clearly you are REALLY interested in Pizzeria Orso. Following are details from their latest press release:

The team behind 2941 Restaurant in Falls Church is launching their newest restaurant, Pizzeria Orso, in June.

The 117-seat restaurant, run by the husband/wife team of Edan and Thea MacQuaid, will specialize in traditional Neapolitan pizzas, a selection of antipasti, house-made salumi and traditional desserts.

Pizzeria Orso features a handmade, bell-shaped volcanic brick oven by Forno Napoletano, third generation oven builders in Naples, Italy.

True to traditional Neapolitan technique, the pizza dough at Pizzeria Orso will be naturally leavened, never refrigerated, and baked in the wood-burning oven at approximately 800°F for 90 seconds.

MacQuaid credits his Pietro Berto diving arm dough mixer as one of the keys to creating the unique dough at Pizzeria Orso. The Pietro Berto gently folds the dough rather than mixing it; he says it simulates the action of a person kneading the dough, not heating it as done in other dough mixers.

Edan MacQuaid, a trained pizzaiolo, has cooked at 2 Amys, Pizzeria Paradiso, and Red Rocks, all acclaimed pizza restaurants in Washington, DC. He was highlighted in the pizza book Pizza: A Slice of Heaven, by Ed Levine, as “the best pizza guy on the East Coast.”

MacQuaid said “I’m looking forward to making pizzas with the traditional tools and methods reflecting the best pizzas in Naples.”

Pizzeria Orso will offer Neapolitan pizzas such as the classic Margherita, with San Marzano tomatoes, Italian buffalo mozzarella and basil (Edan’s favorite); the Vera Orso topped with five Italian cheeses, and with fresh shaved white or black truffles (in season); and the Filepto (Thea’s favorite), a Margherita with sliced fresh cherry tomatoes instead of the San Marzano variety.

The other two traditional Neapolitan pizzas are the Marinara, with San Marzano tomatoes, sliced garlic, and dried Sicilian oregano and the Ripieno, a stuffed pizza similar to a calzone with ricotta and mozzarella cheeses, ground black pepper, grana, and a dollop of San Marzano tomato.

In addition to the traditional Neapolitan pizzas, Pizzeria Orso will offer antipasti options, such as oven baked eggplant parmesan; and Neapolitan fritture, such as potato crocche, a seasonal frito misto, arancini, and suppli a telefono, a smaller Roman fritter.

Pizzeria Orso’s wine and beverage program will be headed by Thea MacQuaid. Thea plans to create a wine list introducing exceptional, value-oriented Italian wines from Campagna and Sicily such as Grotta del Sole’s Gragnano, the Neapolitan fizzy red pizza wine, and San Marzano’s Negroamaro, as well as a number of craft beers, such as Session lager, and Good JuJu on draft.

Pizzeria Orso is located at 400 South Maple Street, Falls Church, VA. The restaurant will be open daily from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.