FOOD: ‘Tis the Seasoning: All Things Nice at Penzeys Spice

Before you read any further please do me a favor. Step away from your computer, go to your kitchen, and open up the spice cabinet. Take a minute to see what’s in there.

OK, are you back yet? Pretty scary, wasn’t it?

I bet you have some dusty old cinnamon from the Clinton administration. There are probably a few unopened bottles of cloves, allspice, and ground ginger as well. Oh, and don’t forget about that vial of Chinese five-spice powder in the corner — you know, the one with the cobwebs on it.

Now, you could go on cooking with these ingredients and lead a happy and healthy life. But they are about as useful as dirt if they’ve been in your house for more than a year. I suggest you head over to Penzeys Spices (513 W. Broad St., 703-534-7770).

The Falls Church outpost of this family-owned national chain, which has 41 stores nationwide and only two in Virginia (the other one is in Richmond), has the best selection of spices, rubs, and seasonings in the City. And the others are not even close. Penzeys blows the competition away.

Penzeys sources its stuff from the far reaches of the globe to bring customers multiple varieties of cinnamon, paprika, and other everyday spices as well as dried chilies, more kinds of salt and pepper than you thought existed, and just about anything else you can sprinkle or shake on a piece of food.

There are also innumerable special blends and mixes, from chili powders and steak seasonings to funny-sounding signature combos like “Sandwich Sprinkle” and “Sunny Spain.” The list of options is exhaustive and enticing. Grab a catalogue (Penzeys has legions of fans that order through its magazine) and peruse it as you walk through the brightly lit, immaculate store.

And don’t forget to smell the samples in the display jars. Part-timer Elena Toft, whose zest for spices is unrivaled by anyone I’ve ever met, guided me through a smelling of four types of cinnamon on my last trip. Each had a unique aroma, but all were intoxicating. It made me want to jump in the kitchen and start baking snickerdoodles.

Without question, the best part about Penzeys is that there is something for every type of cook. Gourmets can buy truckloads of Aleppo Pepper, Smoked Spanish Paprika, and Szechuan Peppercorns, which are all the rage in restaurant kitchens right now. Globe-trotting chefs can mull over which types of curry powder and dried chilies to buy. Barbecue masters can select new and exotic seasonings to add to their repertoire. And even bakers can have their pick of all the high-end cocoa powders, vanilla extracts, and sweet baking spices they want.

Or you could be like Toft and just buy everything. She calls herself a “power user” and claims to own just about every spice in the store.

As for me, well, I tend to go through phases. A few months ago I went through a container of the Turkish Seasoning in a few weeks because of this cumin-obsession thing I was going through. Lately I’ve been hooked on the Fleur de Sel, an artisanal French sea salt that is wickedly good with caramel and chocolate for a salty-sweet treat. But I also frequently reach for the Hot Curry Powder to spice up eggs or fried rice and the Garam Masala (the best jarred version I’ve had) to round out Indian dishes. It’s pretty hard to go wrong with anything. None of the spices I’ve tasted have been dull or dead, unlike many that I’ve sampled from the supermarket. A trip to Penzeys can literally change the way your food tastes. Everything is bright, lively, and fresh.

With this type of quality you’d expect prices to be lofty. Nope. Most of the products are available in tiny jars (usually around an ounce) for three or four bucks.  That’s a bargain when you consider how little is needed when you’re cooking with herbs and spices. Saffron, vanilla, and a few other luxury items, however, will set you back a bit. But when you think about the history of spices — in bloody wars fought over salt and sugar and harrowing overseas journeys to the Far East for nutmeg and cinnamon — it’s hard to complain about paying any price. I’m just grateful that I don’t have to scale a mountain and cross two oceans just to get my hands on some quality peppercorns.

The bottom line is that we are spoiled beyond all reason to have a Penzeys Spices so close by and you are doing yourself a huge disservice if you don’t at least go over and check it out. I doubt you’ll be disappointed.

Have a favorite spice or seasoning from Penzeys Spices? Please tell us about it in the comments section! We’d love to hear from you.

(Photos by Jimmy Scarano)