Judging Taste of Falls Church: So Much Food, So Little Time

Wow. Never in my life have I crammed in so many bites of so many different types of food in such a short span of time. Being a judge at Saturday’s Taste of Falls Church was a whirlwind experience I won’t soon forget. Here’s a rundown of what it’s like to be a food star — of sorts — for a day.

The Set-Up

The judges met at the City’s Community Center at noon for a quick debriefing on how the tasting would work. We were given a clipboard, a pen, and 12 “taste” tickets (yes, it was all free!) and asked to sample foods from 12 restaurant vendors in one hour.

My fellow food critics were City Mayor Robin Gardner, City Treasurer Cathy Kaye, Rob Meeks of the City Planning Commission, and Sweetwater Tavern Executive Chef Tennille Middleton (who is also a contestant on the popular reality show Hell’s Kitchen). We filed out into the parking lot and went our separate ways.

Honestly, I was shocked that we were given so little time to eat so much food. It was as much a race as it was a food tasting. I quickly realized that I would have to keep a steady pace to be able to give every place a fair shot (ultimately I had to cut in line at every booth in order to finish).

The Hour of Excess

I couldn’t possibly list all the foods I ate during my one hour extravaganza. People were handing me food left and right and I was just trying to get a taste of as many things as I could. Here are the dishes and booths that stood out to me:

OPEN KITCHEN

What I ate: Moroccan Chicken Tagine, Chimichurri Meatballs, Chilled Pea and Mint soup, Chocolate Chip Cookie, Farro Salad with Salmon

What I thought about it: This was a pretty impressive display from the new restaurant/catering/cooking class operation on the edge of the City. Everything looked very “gourmet,” although that’s not always a sure sign of good food. The chimichurri meatballs were juicy and a little tangy from the vinegar in the chimichurri sauce (an Argentinean-style herb, oil, garlic, and vinegar concoction typically served with steak). I was shocked how little flavor the dill-flecked farro salad had, especially considering all the fresh ingredients in it. I’m glad I got it topped with the optional piece of salmon, because my slab of fish was perfectly cooked and delicious. Both the tagine and the soup were one-note and forgettable. The chocolate chip cookie was pure chewy goodness. Though hit and miss, this was a clear contender in my mind.

CLARE AND DON’S BEACH SHACK

What I ate: Grilled Shrimp with Grilled Corn

What I thought about it: The shrimp were just OK, but I’m singling out this booth because of that wonderful half ear of grilled sweet corn. It was one of the best things I had all day. Simple, yes, but it was exactly the sort of thing I wanted to see more of at the event. Peak of the season ingredients need little embellishment to taste great. However, a piece of corn wasn’t going to win the tasting for me.

CAFE NESSMA

What I ate: Falafel Sandwich and Middle Eastern Meat Pie

What I thought about it: Café Nessma would have benefited greatly from on-site cooking equipment. With a deep fryer and a small griddle, this small restaurant in the West End Plaza could have taken home the first place plaque. The falafel sandwich was flavorful and spiked with a pretty decent hummus, but it was cold. The meat pie — subtly spiced with allspice and cinnamon — also could have been a little warmer. Still, I enjoyed the offerings and think a new review for this place may be in order soon.

HOANG’S GRILL AND SUSHI BAR

What I ate: Teriyaki Ribs and Spring Rolls

What I thought about it: Even though the spring rolls were oily and lukewarm, somehow they tasted pretty good. And the ribs, though stained an unnatural pink-reddish hue, were quite tender and savory with a sweetish marinade. Anything faintly Asian-tasting will always win points with me, but I wasn’t prepared to back Hoang’s as my top pick.

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Everything else I had wasn’t terribly memorable. All the seafood — and there was a lot of it being offered by various vendors — was sort of blurred into one big mediocre taste. I downed plenty of mussels, shrimp, clams, and a raw oyster, but none of it left me wanting another sample.

The Deliberation

Returning to the Community Center, I was nervous that my opinions would differ from my colleagues, but when we went around the room the same names kept popping up. Everyone agreed that Open Kitchen had the most inventive food and deserved serious consideration for the top prize. The only other contenders were Café Nessma and Hoang’s, which had both supporters and detractors. All of us liked the flavors at Nessma’s booth but were reluctant to give it high praise because the food was cold and they ran out of some items. Hoang’s spring rolls were deemed oily and heavy by some and tasty by others.

In the end, we settled on Open Kitchen as the top choice and, even though there was no requirement to name a second place finisher, decided to recognize Café Nessma as runner up.

The Announcement

My five minutes of fame. Mayor Gardner stepped up to the microphone to introduce the judges and name the winners in front of a sizeable crowd. I was equal parts uncomfortable and excited to be standing next to the mayor and having my picture taken. We announced Café Nessma as the second place finisher and the owner seemed genuinely thrilled, so I was happy for him. Open Kitchen’s staff was also giddy over their deserved win. With both restaurants being relatively new the exposure will certainly give business a boost, and that’s always a nice thing to see for hard-working people that put out thoughtful food.

The Nap

After taking some pictures for the Falls Church Times, I waddled back to my car and went home to take a nap.

The Reflection and Future Suggestions

I spent the rest of my weekend reflecting on my experience at the Taste of Falls Church. More than anything, I’m just grateful that the City asked me to be a part of such an awesome event. The crowds were fantastic and there was a festive cheer that permeated Cherry Hill Park.

Being the obsessive food geek that I am, though, I can’t help but mention a few things I’d like to see change about the food aspect of the Fall Festival. Given that the event takes place footsteps away from the Farmers Market I think it’s a little absurd that more restaurants aren’t serving locally sourced food, especially in early September when everything is so utterly delicious. And even if the food isn’t local, at least it could be a little more summery. Next year I’d love to see more corn, tomatoes, peppers, and the like. I also think it would be great if there were a bit more ethnic flair. The Taste of Falls Church is our one chance to be able to get saltenas, arepas, pupusas, Peruvian chicken, Vietnamese grilled meats, Indian curries, Thai stir-fries, Szechuan dumplings, and Persian kabobs all in one place (and yes, all of those are readily available right here in Falls Church!).  A more eclectic array of restaurants would be a welcome sight for next year. We’ve got to celebrate the incredible diversity this town has to offer.

I’m curious what readers, as paying customers, thought of the festival. What were some of the best things you ate? Was it worth the price? Any suggestions for next year?