FOOD:
The End of the Road

By JIMMY SCARANO
Falls Church Times Staff

April 16, 2010

This will be the last installment of my weekly food column for the Falls Church Times.  No more obsessive Farmers Market taste tests.  No more waxing poetic about the Eden Center.  No more bashing Pie-Tanza and Elevation Burger.  It’s all over.  I’m off to graduate school to begin the next chapter in my life.

To say that I’ll miss the Times is a gross understatement.  Food and writing are two passions of mine that I was able to indulge simultaneously with this gig, which also allowed me to work with some of the nicest, most down-to-earth people I’ve met—the Falls Church Times Staff.

Stan Fendley has backed me up no matter what I’ve written.  I’ve gotten words of encouragement and advice from Dave Witzel, Scott Taylor, Annette Hennessey, George Bromley, Gina Caceci, and Stephen Siegel on numerous occasions.  And Man About Town Columnist George Southern, well, he’s been about the best editor a writer could ever have—helping me along every step of the way with uncommon thoughtfulness.  I can’t imagine a more supportive group of people.

I hope you’ve enjoyed reading my columns as much as I’ve enjoyed writing them.  For the most part, I’ve avoided writing about the City’s most popular places, which I don’t see the point in reviewing.  Instead I’ve focused on lesser known ethnic places and foods available here that aren’t available elsewhere.   There are many places I didn’t get a chance to profile and many dishes I didn’t get a chance to try, but I had a blast exploring new restaurants, shopping at ethnic grocers, and expanding my horizons at the Farmers Market.

I’ll leave you with one last labor of love—a list of the “Top 10 Food-Related Things I’ll Miss the Most in and Around the City of Falls Church.”  It’s a long title for a list but I can’t think of a better name.  I’ve tried to cover all the bases, from markets to restaurants to places in the City and outside of it but not too far away.  At best I think it’s a useful tool for any City resident interested in getting the most of the unique food offerings around the Little City.  I call it a list of things I’ll miss, but from your perspective it’s really just my list of the “Top 10 Food-Related Things to Take Advantage of in and Around the City of Falls Church.”

If I mention a place that I’ve written a story about in the past then I’ve included a link to that story to give you some more information about it. If I mention a place that I didn’t get a chance to write a story about I’ve included the address in parentheses.  And if I don’t mention a place you think I should’ve mentioned, well, I’m sorry about that.  So here’s the list, beginning with the place I’ll miss the very most…

Top 10 Food-Related Things I’ll Miss the Most in and Around the City of Falls Church

The gateway to deliciousness.

1. The Eden Center- I’ve probably written more about this City gem than anything else.  The Eden Center is a food paradise with over 30 Vietnamese restaurants and bakeries that I’ve only scratched the surface of even though I’ve been there dozens of times.  I’ll miss Huong Viet—Eden’s oldest and most often crowded restaurant– the most.  Its spring rolls, smoky grilled meats, and gutsy lemongrass-centric stir fries are a terrific introduction to a great cuisine.  If you haven’t been to Eden you simply must go.  If you only go occasionally then you should go more often.  And if you just don’t feel like dealing with the notoriously bad parking at least head down to Present Restaurant in Falls Church to enjoy some just-as-good Vietnamese cooking– its the cuisine this area specializes in better than any other.
2. The Farmers Market- There are Farmers Markets everywhere.  But it’s going to be hard for me to find one better than the one the City is so blessed to have.  I’ll miss the tomatoes at Tree and Leaf and Potomac Vegetable Farms.  I’ll miss the glorious fruit at Toigo and Black Rock Orchard.  I’ll miss Mike Musachio’s sweet corn and spring peas.  Most of all, though, I’ll miss the market experience as a whole.  The hustle and bustle of a Saturday morning at the Farmers Market is invigorating. Read more

MARCH MADNESS: A Look Back at the Little City Pool

By JIMMY SCARANO
Falls Church Times Staff

April 10, 2010

This year’s unpredictable NCAA Men’s Basketball tournament made for a great race to the finish of the Falls Church Times’ inaugural pick’em competition.  Over 30 loyal Times readers joined the yahoo.com-run contest for a chance to win a $75 gift certificate to a City restaurant or a Falls Church Farmers Market gift basket.

When Duke and Butler tipped off in an unlikely finale this past Monday night the bracket winner was still in doubt.   With a heart-wrenching Duke victory, City residents Daniel Butler and Dennis Zaenger—who both picked the Blue Devils to go all the way– leaped to the top of the leader board.  The two tied for first place, but Mr. Butler won the tiebreaker because of his closer prediction of the final score of the game.

Had Butler upset Duke, Man About Town Columnist George Southern would’ve claimed the crown.  Whew, that was a close one. 

Thanks to all that participated and better luck next year.  Click here to see the final standings of the competition.

FOOD: A Look Ahead at the Spring Bounty

By JIMMY SCARANO
Falls Church Times Staff

April 2, 2010

Tomorrow the Falls Church Farmers Market will return to its spring and summer hours, opening at 8 a.m. instead of 9 a.m. That may not sound like big news, but I think it is. The time switch signifies the fact that the produce-packed wonderland we all know and love will start to show itself in the coming weeks.

Don’t get me wrong. I love what the market has become during the winter months. There are meats, pastas, preserves, and cheeses that rival—and in many ways outshine– the best supermarkets. But for me a farmers market is first and foremost about fruits and vegetables. The City Hall parking looks its best when it’s a reflection of the season.

Don’t expect to see much just yet, though. If we’re lucky there may be some ramps available this weekend or next. The red-tinged wild leeks are one of the earliest spring vegetables to sprout up, often showing up in the first week of April. For years they were overlooked and thought of as “country folk” food that only people out in the boonies foraged for. Now they’re one of the hottest seasonal items on high-end restaurant menus, prized for their unique oniony-garlicky kick. If a vendor brings some along snatch them up and add them to an omelet for a totally-worth-the-bad-breath flavor punch.

By mid-April asparagus and spring lettuces will dominate the landscape. It’s imperative to catch the asparagus as early as possible. The later asparagus crops pale in comparison to the first ones, which bring specimens so thin and tender that they usually don’t require any peeling. Rhubarb, which has a tragically short growing season and is vastly underutilized in the kitchen, may also make an appearance before May. Stock up and freeze all that you can for pies, cobblers, jams and even savory stews—rhubarb’s wonderfully tart flavor works in both sweet and savory dishes.

Curvy garlic scapes (far left) are one of the first spring delicacies to hit the stands.

I’m counting the days until the first garlic scapes hit the stands. I discovered the two foot long green tendrils last spring and fell in love with them. They are a part of the garlic plant that is snipped off to encourage the growth of the bulb, and until recently were never sold at markets. But instead of throwing them away farmers have turned to selling them with great success. They have the taste of mild garlic mixed with spring onions and the texture of asparagus bottoms. I encourage you to chop them up in sautés, pulverize them into pesto-related concoctions, and just enjoy them for the precious few weeks they are available. A garlic scape is something you will never see on a supermarket shelf.

Peas are the classic spring vegetable, but don't expect Mike Musachio's little treasures to come to market until mid-May.

Mike Musachio’s peas are another spring treat I’ve been looking forward to for many months. I called the long-time farmer and veteran Falls Church Farmers Market vendor the other day to see when they would be ready and he said some time in mid-May. Mark your calendars. Why so few vendors carry fresh peas anymore is beyond me. They are irresistible, especially in the hands of a master like Musachio, who puts them on ice at the market to preserve their sweet spring essence.

Strawberries will likely come around the same time as peas. I suggest you come early when they first arrive because the minute I see some I am going to buy several quarts. A locally grown, in-season strawberry is a treat like few things on this planet.

By late May things will really start to pick up. But that’s another story. For now, it’s all about the anticipation of those first few spring treasures. Don’t forget to seek them out in the next few months, because before you know it they will be gone.

FOOD: Back to the Lebanese Butcher

By JIMMY SCARANO
Falls Church Times Staff

March 25, 2010

If you take the Eden Center out of the equation, I think the Lebanese Butcher is the city’s most intriguing restaurant.  Not only does it have a wide-ranging, extremely affordable menu of home-style food, but it also has a killer butcher shop and grocer right next door, which is owned by the same family and predates the restaurant.

Naturally, many of the locally raised halal meats and imported Lebanese goodies at the butcher make appearances on the menu at the small café.  It’s a unique set-up that ensures quality and affords diners the chance to stop by two fun places in one visit.  That’s the reason I took a few trips there last June and wrote a short piece about it for the Falls Church Times.

Now, generally after I write a review of a place it means the end of me going there for some time.  But I haven’t been able to get the Lebanese Butcher out of my head.  While I enjoyed the few items I tried off their menu—especially the garlic-laced chicken shawarma sandwich—I knew there were some special dishes I missed out on.  For months every time I drove by I thought about stopping in to try the aya maza, a 10 appetizer sampler for $19.95 meant to be split between two people.

The no-frills atmosphere at the Lebanese Butcher is part of its charm (staff photo by George Southern).

This week I caved, dragging my brother along with me on a mission to tackle the aya maza.  Not being a huge fan of Lebanese food to begin with, he was not thrilled about this mission.  I assured him that there would be good things on the plate. Read more

FOOD: Asian Imports — That Other Asian Supermarket

By JIMMY SCARANO
Falls Church Times Staff

March 19, 2010

There are so many incredible Asian food markets within a 10 mile radius of the City of Falls Church.

Great Wall off Gallows Rd. in Falls Church may be the craziest of the bunch.  On Saturday mornings the check-out lines are often ten people deep, comprised mostly of Chinese grandmothers stocking up on loads of fresh vegetables and fish straight out of the live tanks that line the back of the store.  The Korean-centric H Mart across the street is similarly chaotic, teeming with people at all hours of the day.

At Duangrats in Falls Church and Bangkok 54 Market in nearby Arlington homesick Thais shuffle in throughout the week for curry pastes, fresh rice noodles, kaffir lime leaves, and other hard-to-find items.  Every time I go to one of them I leave with a new treasure I’ve never tasted in my life.

And there are countless other places that get plenty of well-deserved business—the Grand Mart just outside the city; the Cho Saigon Supermarket at the Eden Center; the Happy Go Supermarket in Annandale.

But there is an overlooked gem amongst these popular Asian grocers — a place that sees far fewer people walk through its doors.  It’s called Asian Imports and it’s right here in the Little City.

Asian Imports (formerly known as Vietnam Imports) isn’t nearly as big or well-stocked as much of its brethren, and some of the products seem to have been untouched for years.  It doesn’t really carry any fresh produce, meats, or fish worth noting either.  Truthfully, the place doesn’t look like much at all on the surface.

Start perusing the shelves, though, and you’ll quickly realize this is no generic Asian market.  Even though you’ll find some of the same Vietnamese, Chinese, Thai, and Korean items that other stores carry, Asian Imports specializes in Indonesian and Filipino imported foods, both of which are hard to come by around here.  There are dozens of products and brands at this cramped storefront that you simply can’t find elsewhere.  For that reason alone, this place is worth a trip. Read more

MARCH MADNESS: Last Chance to Join Pick’em Tourney

By JIMMY SCARANO
Falls Church Times Staff

March 17, 2010

The NCAA men’s basketball tournament tips off tomorrow, which means time is running out to sign up for the first ever Falls Church Times pick’em pool.

Remember that it’s free to enter a bracket in the tournament and there are prizes available for the top two finishers!  The winner will win a $75 gift certificate to a restaurant in the City of Falls Church of his or her choice and the runner-up will win a hand-picked gift basket of Falls Church Farmers Market goodies.

The tournament is being run through yahoo.com.  If you wish to participate all you have to do is click here and press the “join a group” icon.  The group ID number is 50125 and the password is fallschurchtimes.com (if you are not already a yahoo member you will need to create an account—it takes only a minute and is free).

Let the madness begin.

MARCH MADNESS: Inaugural Pick’em Tournament

By FALLS CHURCH TIMES STAFF

March 12,  2010

It is with great pleasure and excitement that we announce our first ever Falls Church Times March Madness Pick’em Tournament.

The annual NCAA Men’s basketball tournament is a whirlwind of an event that never fails to be thrilling and surprising.  Half the fun, of course, is filling out a bracket and following the progress of the teams you have playing into the late rounds.

There is no fee to enter a bracket in the tournament but there will be a first and second place prize!  In keeping with The Little City scope of our paper, we’ve decided on a $75 gift certificate to any restaurant in the City of Falls Church as the grand prize and a Falls Church Farmers Market Gift Basket as the runner-up prize.

The tournament will be run through yahoo.com.  If you wish to participate all you have to do is click here and press the “join a group” icon.  The group ID number is 50125 and the password is fallschurchtimes.com (if you are not already a yahoo member you will need to create an account—it takes only a minute and is free).  Just remember that the tournament field won’t be announced until Sunday, March 14, so you’ll have to wait until then to make your picks.  And you’ll only have until Thursday, March 18, to make your selections, as that is the first day of tournament play.

If you have any questions or concerns contact Falls Church Times staffer Jimmy Scarano at jimmy.scarano@gmail.com.

Once again, to participate:

• Go to this website: http://tournament.fantasysports.yahoo.com/t1/register/joingroup
• Enter ID Number:  50125
• Use Password: fallschurchtimes.com

May the best bracket win.

FOOD: Panjshir–A Blast from the Past

By JIMMY SCARANO
Falls Church Times Staff

March 12, 2010

There was a time when Panjshir, the city’s long-standing Afghan restaurant, was considered the cream of the crop in the region for its genre.  It was written up in magazines and praised for its traditional, well-prepared dishes.

In the last five years that’s changed.

Food critics and foodie fanatics have moved on.  A host of newer places, including the nearby Bamian in Falls Church, are the current darlings in a growing Afghan restaurant circuit.  There is a perception out there that Panjshir is stuck in the past—that it caters to an older clientele of regulars with predictable, mildly seasoned food.

This week I embarked on a mission to the 25 year-old institution to see what the story was.  Even though I’d been to the restaurant once before, it was so long ago that it felt like my first time there.

I walked into a fancy dining room half-filled with white-haired grannies; a scene that did not, in all honesty, fill me with confidence.  I know there are ethnic restaurants that are patronized primarily by Westerners and still have good food, but those are few and far between.   Generally I prefer to eat at a place where there are some people dining there from the same ethnic background as the cuisine being served.  It reassures me that I’m getting something reasonably close to the real McCoy.  Nevertheless, I kept an open mind.  Good food can come from anywhere.

I sat down with a couple of friends with plans to order a range of dishes, a few of which I would be tasting for the first time.  Truth be told, I’ve only eaten Afghan food a handful of times.  There are still a ton of dishes I want to explore from the landlocked Central Asian nation.

From what I’ve had so far I’d say Afghan food is most similar to Persian food, which I eat often and love.   Both cuisines work wonders with slowly stewed fruits and vegetables, rice, and charcoal-charred meat kabobs.  They’re neighbors, so that makes sense.  But Afghan cooks also employ a more liberal use of Indian spices—especially cardamom, black pepper and coriander—and incorporate some Turkish-influenced dumpling-like dishes, most notably the meat-filled pillows called mantu (Panjshir calls them muntoo). Like most surrounding countries, bread and yogurt also play integral roles at the table.

I’ve always wanted to try aushak, the scallion-filled cousin of the aforementioned mantu, so we started off with a small order of those.  The little dumplings were drowned in yogurt and a mild tomato-meat sauce and served tepid.  Not good.  A bigger problem was the pasta itself, which was some of the chewiest and toughest I’ve ever had.  The only highlight was the generous sprinkling of dried mint over top of it all, which contributed a unique and welcome savory flavor.  I’m pretty convinced this was a poor rendition of what could be a wonderful dish. Read more

Next Page »