By RA CHAN
May 18, 2012
Special To Falls Church Times

I’m a huge fan of Honey Pig Goldagee so when I heard about their sister restaurant, Honey Pig Izakaya, opening up, I had to mark my calendar to go check them out! What makes this place different from the original Honey Pig? Well for starters, it’s not a real Korean BBQ restaurant. Instead, it’s a Japanese fusion place, specializing in yakitori (grilled skewers), ramen noodles and sushi.

The décor reminds me a lot of Honey Pig, it’s definitely a little smaller and the bar takes a prominent role on the first floor. There is also seating available in the dining room upstairs.

Looking over the extensive menu, it really was hard deciding on what to get. So I settled on some sushi to start, a bowl of their miso ramen noodles and some yakitori.

The sushi wasn’t mind blowing or anything, just average; but I really did not expect too much of that. The ramen noodles though were actually super tasty. The broth was savory with the perfect amount of thickness. The ramen noodles were accompanied by a boiled egg, bamboo shoots and steamed bean sprouts. The noodles were cooked perfectly, not too mushy or al dente. This was such a hearty and flavorful bowl. For anyone who is interested in trying out ramen noodles and doesn’t feel like venturing out into DC, I’d definitely recommend coming here.

I ordered a variety of yakitori skewers: the chicken, pork belly and pork meatballs. They were all grilled with a sweet and savory sauce. I would have preferred some rice to accompany the skewers, but all in all, it was pretty tasty.

I think this place has potential. Nothing really blew my mind, but I can see myself coming back for a bowl of ramen noodle soup next time I’m in the mood.

4231-R Markham Street
Annandale, VA 22003
www.honeypigizakaya.com
Hours: 7 days a week, 5pm-2am

May 11, 2012

Falls Church Times

One of the heralds of warmer weather is the regal asparagus. This year with the warm weather early we have had a bounty of spring fruit to include lots of asparagus along with strawberries and early tomatoes.  Last weekend both my husband and I were so thrilled with the offerings of asparagus that we both loaded up on it. Thus we ended up with 6 bunches of asparagus and we had to come up with a variety of ways to prepare and serve it.

Asparagus is only available in our area for a few weeks in the spring and there is nothing better than those tender stems with slightly purple tips. Asparagus is a highly productive plant highly suited for cooler climates and provides a great source of Vitamins A and C and the leading vegetable supplier of folic acid. An established asparagus plant can produce spears for 15-25 years without replanting. The asparagus crowns are planted and are only harvested after they have been establish for 3-5 years. After a few weeks, the asparagus is allowed to grow to its full height and resembles a small Christmas tree with red berries. The large growth allows for the root crown to build up its energy stores for another year. Asparagus grows wild and many used to harvest it in the open fields.

There is the standard preparation of steamed asparagus with Hollandaise sauce, but we found that grilling the asparagus spears provided an intense accentuation to the majestic vegetable and we were nibbling on the spears before they made it to the table. After breaking the tough ends off of the stalk, we tossed the spears in canola oil, salt and pepper. Then we placed them directly on the grilled perpendicular to the grill slots so we wouldn’t lose them into the grill. It took about 5-8 minutes before the asparagus spears were slightly crispy and ready to eat. We also used another method of creating asparagus “rafts”.  You take 5 asparagus spears, line them up together and spear the stalks with two bamboo skewers – one at the top and one at the bottom of the stalk. This allows you to hold grill the asparagus without losing them into the grill.

A few years ago at a Farmers Market Chef demonstration, Willow Restaurant demonstrated making an asparagus bisque as another way to truly enjoy the vibrant colors, aromas and taste of this herald of spring.  Many at the demonstration asked if variations could be made to accommodate different diets. Vegetable broth could be substituted for chicken broth and it would be helpful if a little extra butter was added to the recipe to add in the necessary fat. Chervil is added to the recipe to ensure the bright green color to the bisque, but if it is not available, you could double the order of parsley. Many asked about substituting the cream with evaporated milk, which is of course perfectly fine. For those who don’t use dairy products, you may use creamed or mashed potatoes to add in the creamy base.

Spring Asparagus Bisque from Willow Restaurant

Yield: 6 Servings

2 bunches Local Spring Asparagus

2 quarts Chicken Stock (Canned Low Sodium Chicken Broth may be used)

16 ounces Heavy Cream

4 ounces Crème Fraiche

4 ounces Smoked Ham, cut into large chunks

1  Leek, white part only

6 pieces Thyme Sprigs, tied in a bunch

3 bunches Fresh Chervil

1 bunch Fresh Parsley

6 ounces Shredded Smoked Salmon, Max & Me Brand (the best!)

to taste  Kosher Salt

2 tbsp.  Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Bring 8 quarts of water and 1/4 cup salt to a rolling boil.  Trim 3 inches off the top of the asparagus and reserve tips.

All the asparagus should be pre-blanched in the same manner: Add asparagus to boiling water in small batches, cooking the stems and tips separately.  Once the asparagus is tender, place in a large container of ice water until cool so as to stop the cooking process.

Blanch the chervil and parsley in boiling water for 30 seconds and cool in ice water.

Drain asparagus tips, herbs and asparagus stems separately.

In a blender, puree the asparagus stems, chervil & parsley with just enough ice water (2 Tbsp) to ensure the items are thoroughly blended to a smooth texture.  To make the base, start by heating an 8 quart stock pot over medium-high heat, add 1 ounce Extra Virgin Olive Oil, the ham & the leek.  Cook over medium heat until everything is soft, trying not to add too much color.  Once tender, add the chicken stock and thyme bouquet.  Bring the stock to a boil and reduce to a simmer.  Gently reduce the liquid by half.

Once reduced, add the heavy cream and continue simmering for an additional 10 minutes.  Allow the soup to cool at room temperature for 1 hour, after which pass through a fine sieve strainer.  Discard the vegetables.

Just before you plan to serve the soup, return the base to the heat and slowly bring to a simmer.  First, whisk in the crème fraiche and then the asparagus puree, ensuring the soup has returned to a simmer before adding the asparagus.  Taste and adjust the seasoning with Kosher salt.  Serve immediately and garnish the bowls with smoked salmon, asparagus tips and chopped chives.

(Editor’s Note: When I met up with Claire at the last Falls Church Farmers Market chef demo she was so excited about this recipe and I can see why!  She thought this would be a lovely accompaniment to a Mother’s Day dinner or brunch. So come to the Falls Church Farmer’s Market tomorrow to welcome all the new and familiar vendors and pull together your ingredients for next weekend’s Mother Day celebrations.)

When my husband and I lived in the Napa Valley several years ago, I cooked at a very popular Michelin-star restaurant. The summer was the valley’s busiest time of year, and on weekends especially, the restaurant would be bustling with servers, cooks, bussers, dishwashers, you name it. I worked the lunch shift on the weekends and, in addition to prepping my station and cooking for the guests, it was also my responsibility to make family meal for our entire staff.

We were encouraged by our chef to make dishes that fed many but cost little. One of the ingredients we always had plenty of was stale bread, left over from the night before. Obviously, I had used stale bread in the past to make French toast or sweet bread pudding, but as side dishes go that wasn’t going to work. But I thought, why not a savory bread pudding, a creamier stuffing if you will. “Eureka!” Now I know that a savory version of bread pudding was thought up long before my time as a cook, but this recipe is true perfection and so affordable, even with a multitude of farmer’s market ingredients. It also makes a great addition to any Mother’s Day breakfast or brunch or dinner.

Five of the ingredients for this dish are from the Falls Church farmers market. The San Francisco Sourdough bread, made from certified organic flour, is from Atwater’s Bakery in Baltimore, Md., http://atwaters.biz/. The uncured bacon, from grass-fed pork, is from Smith Meadows Farm in Berryville, Va., http://smithmeadows.com/. The spring onions are from Laurel Grove Farms in Oak Grove, Va. The free-range eggs are from Flower of the Forest Farm in Lexington Park, Md. And the milk is from Clear Spring Creamery in Clear Spring, Md., http://www.clearspringcreamery.com/.

Equipment: 1 medium skillet, 1 9 X 13 baking dish, 1 large mixing bowl, 1 medium mixing bowl, 1 medium sauce pan.

6 cups stale bread (I think sourdough works well in this recipe) – cut into a 1-inch dice — $3.50

6 strips of bacon (I used uncured, hormone free)- small dice — $2.89

4 spring onions (not scallions), about 1 cup – sliced thinly into rounds — $1.25

1 cup whole milk — $0.62

1 cup heavy cream — $1.24

2 whole eggs — $0.78

1 egg yolk –  $0.39

½ tsp fresh thyme — $0.03

1 tsp. salt — $0.01

½ tsp. freshly ground pepper — $0.01

½ cup grated pecorino — $0.53

2 Tbsp. softened butter — $0.40

Total cost of dish = $11.65

Begin by cutting the stale bread into a 1-inch dice. The bread should be very stale and hard. If you feel like your bread isn’t stale enough, it can always be popped into a low oven, at about 300 degrees, for about 15 minutes. Once the bread is cubed, place it in a large mixing bowl for later.

Saute bacon in a medium skillet over medium heat. Cook until the bacon is crispy, about 10 minutes. Add crispy bacon to the large mixing bowl with the bread. Remove all but 2 tablespoons of rendered bacon fat from the skillet. Saute spring onions in rendered bacon fat until the onions are tender, about 5 minutes. Add onions to the large mixing bowl.

Whisk whole eggs and the egg yolk in a medium bowl. Set aside. In a separate sauce pan add milk and cream. Cook until scalding (when mixture just begin to boil around the edges).  Slowly stream in the hot milk/cream mixture into the eggs while whisking constantly. If the milk is added to the eggs too quickly, the eggs will scramble, so ADD SLOWLY!  Season the milk/cream mixture with salt, pepper and thyme. When the salt is dissolved, add the milk/cream mixture to the bread. Stir until all of the ingredients are well-combined. Add pecorino and stir to combine. The mixture will look very wet. This is okay. The bread will absorb the liquid as it sits, (reference picture below). Refrigerate the mixture for at least 8 hours, or overnight.

Move the oven rack to the highest setting and preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Grease a 9 X 13 inch baking dish with softened butter. Add the bread mixture to the greased dish and cover with foil. Bake for 40 minutes covered on the top rack and then uncovered for an additional 15-20 minutes. The bread pudding should be set and all the liquid should be cooked and absorbed into the bread.  Be cautious not to overcook the pudding; it will be very dry.

Makes eight 1-cup portions.

http://clairesculinaryconnection.blogspot.com/

The cold and chilly morning did not dampen the kick off of the fourth year of the Falls Church Farmers Market Chef. Willow Restaurant’s Tracy O’Grady and Kate Jensen all bundled up prepared a sweet and savory pairing of ricotta pancakes topped with sautéed asparagus and roasted strawberries. And while many thought that the morning would not be a success as the sun decided to hide behind some clouds shortly after 8am, you could tell it was another success by the more than 500 ricotta pancakes served by 10:30am.

Tracy chose the pairing of the asparagus and strawberries to show consumers that with a little creativity you can create savory or sweet dishes to highlight local seasonal food. The asparagus was blanched for 3- 4 minutes and then sautéed in butter with salt and pepper. The strawberries were trimmed and then roasted. To roast the strawberries, you wash and trim them, toss them in white balsamic vinegar and then place them on a shallow baking dish at 250 degrees in the oven for an hour. Roasting intensifies the sweet flavor to the strawberries which sets off the savory of the asparagus.

The ricotta pancakes were very light and Tracy recommends using the farmers’ market ricotta rather than the commercial ricotta as the farmers’ market variety is sweeter and lighter. The commercial ricotta due to the preservatives will have much more of a sour taste. The pancakes are super easy to make and can be used as an appetizer or a light lunch. The recipe can be found on the Farmers Market Chef website.

It is always a pleasure having Tracy O’Grady as part of the Falls Church Farmers’ Market Chef demo as she has so many fans in the local community due to the many organizations she and Willow support. Willow is also a favorite of many of the local community for a dining experience and it is a treat to get to see Tracy and Kate in action. What is also very special is the Curtin family tradition of supporting local chefs and Ciara Curtin donning her chefs toque to help out with the line and dress the pancakes with the roasted strawberries.

The next Falls Church Farmers Market Chef will be on Saturday, May 19^th featuring Chef Bertrand Chemel.

By Claire McConnell
April 20, 2012
Special to Falls Church Times

Exploring the Falls Church farmer’s market in April can be a little tricky. The more common vegetables are out of season, and you’re left with lots of root veggies and dark, leafy greens. And after eating root vegetables and leafy greens for the last three months, it’s challenging thinking of new and exciting ideas with the same produce. But on a recent visit, I saw a beautiful, large head of cabbage; a vegetable that is usually under-appreciated for its versatility.

When most people think of cabbage, they usually think of two things: over-dressed coleslaw or some overcooked mush served with corned beef.  Unfortunately, cabbage has become somewhat of an afterthought, a poor-man’s side dish if you will. But cabbage is an incredibly versatile vegetable that when utilized properly has incredible flavor. Cabbage also is an excellent source of vitamin C and folic acid and is a good source of potassium and B6. It is extremely low in fat, calories and carbohydrates, but high in fiber. Cabbage is said to have cancer-inhibiting properties and has been used for centuries as an anti-diarrheal and as an antibiotic for stomach ulcers.  But best of all, cabbage is very inexpensive. Most stores usually charge around 30 cents per pound. Even organic cabbage tends to be fairly inexpensive.

This recipe for Golabki (go’wompki), or stuffed cabbage, stemmed from a conversation I had with my grandma, who apparently use to make them for her family years ago. Golabki is a traditional Polish dish made from boiled cabbage leaves, stuffed with ground pork and seasoned rice and baked in a tomato-cream sauce. This dish is a twist on the classic and perfect for chilly spring nights, and even though it may already feel like summer has arrived, it will still taste delicious.

Three of the ingredients for this dish are from the Falls Church farmers market. The cabbage is from Sunnyside Farm and Orchard, in Charlestown, W.V., http://sunnysidefarmandorchard.com/. The grass-fed ground beef is from Smith Meadows Farm in Berryville, Va., http://smithmeadows.com/. And the apples are from Black Rock Orchard in Lineboro, Md.

Equipment: 1 medium skillet, 1 medium saucepan, 1 large stockpot and 1 9 X 13 baking dish.

1 cup long-grain white rice — $0.73

2 cups water — $0.00

1 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil — $0.05

½ medium onion – small dice — $0.37

3 garlic cloves – minced — $0.07

1-pound ground beef (I used no hormone added, grass-fed) — $7.55

1 Tbsp smoked paprika — $0.04

1 large head of cabbage, around 5-7 pounds — $2.00

1 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil — $0.05

½ medium onion – small dice — $0.37

1 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes — $1.49

1 tbsp. smoked paprika — $0.04

1 cinnamon stick — $0.12

1 large apple, such as golden delicious – cut into ½ inch dice — $0.69

¼ cup golden raisins — $0.38

½ cup sour cream — $0.60

Chopped parsley — $0.16

Total cost of entire meal = $14.71

Okay, so this recipe has more than a handful of steps, but isn’t as difficult as it seems. Just make sure to read the entire recipe before getting started.

Cook off the rice like you usually would. I always use a 2 to 1 ratio, but it’s best to follow the directions on the package. Allow the rice to completely cool and then set it aside for later.

For the beef mixture, heat 1 tbsp. olive oil in a skillet, add onion and sauté until translucent — about five minutes. Add garlic and sauté for an additional 1-minute. Add ground beef and cook until no raw pieces remain. Season with smoked paprika, salt and pepper and allow the mixture to completely cool.

For the cabbage, start off by bringing a large stockpot to a boil. With a small pairing knife, cut the inner core out of the cabbage, so as the cabbage boils the leaves will easily peel off.  Plunge the whole head of cabbage into the boiling water and allow it to boil for about five minutes. After five minutes, the leaves should begin to peel back, soften and feel pliable. Remove 12 -14 large leaves from the cabbage and dry them on towels. Allow the leaves to cool completely.

For the sauce, heat 1 tbsp. of olive oil and add onion and sauté until translucent — about five minutes. Add the crushed tomatoes, smoked paprika, and cinnamon stick. Cook over medium heat until the sauce has reduced and the flavors have combined — about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and add diced raw apple and golden raisins. Remove the cinnamon stick. Season the sauce with salt and pepper and then set it aside.

Now that all the steps are complete, you are ready for stuffing. Mix the plain rice and the ground beef mixture together until well combined. Season mixture with salt and pepper if necessary. Take each cabbage leaf and cut a V-shape where the bottom core is to help aid with stuffing (reference the picture above.) Put about 1/3 cup of the mixture in each leaf and roll tightly like you would a burrito.

Cover the bottom of your baking dish with about ½ cup of sauce. Add each finished rolled cabbage bundle into your sauced baking dish (reference picture below.) Cover the stuffed cabbage with remaining sauce and cover pan with aluminum foil. Bake the stuffed cabbage in a pre-heated *350 oven for 90 minutes. This may seem like a long time, but the cabbage needs this long to cook to become soft and fork tender.

Top each finished stuffed cabbage portion with 2 tbsp. of sour cream and a sprinkle of chopped parsley.

Makes 10-12 stuffed cabbage rolls.

Claire’s Culinary Connection

By RA CHAN
April 13, 2012
Special to the Falls Church Times

A few weeks ago, Twitter was buzzing about the grand opening of a place called Chasin’ Tails Seafood and Bar.  And if you are listeners of the Sports Junkies, 106.7 the Fan, one of the hosts EB, was helping to promote the place as well. After seeing pictures of his crawfish dinner at their grand opening, I had to go check them out!

The restaurant is at the location of the old Bear Rock Cafe in Arlington just a few feet from the Falls Church City line, across from La Cote D’Or.  Walking inside, I was immediately impressed at the architecture and décor.  I love the dark wood; it gives the place a very modern and clean feel, which is very impressive for a seafood place.  There were tables set up outside as well, if you wanted to dine al fresco.

Looking over the menu, there’s a decent selection of seafood for those who are not into crawdaddys. But I was determined to try out their crawfish and see how it compared to a few other places I’d eaten at. The crawfish are served by the pound, and you get your choice of 1 of 4 seasoning mixes and then you pick your heat level. What impressed me on the menu was that each bag of seafood comes with corn and a potato and for each 2 lbs you order, sausage is included.  I settled on an order of the Cajun seasoning, Hot and then the Whole Shebang seasoning, Hot. The Whole Shebang is just a combo of the Cajun, Lemon/Pepper and Garlic seasonings.

The crawfish comes out steamed in a bag, enveloped in the seasoning and spices. You get to wear a bib and just go to town with your fingers, no silverware needed! I was amazed at the size of the crawfish, they were huge. I had read somewhere that their crawfish were flown in live, so none of the frozen variety here. The Cajun seasoning was average to me; the Whole Shebang seasoning on the other hand, was amazing! I love the mix of all the flavors and since I got it Hot, it was finger licking delicious!  For those who may be afraid of the heat, I didn’t think the Hot was that spicy at all, it was a good level of heat that didn’t make you sweat and numb the rest of your taste buds.

I ended dinner with an order of the beignets for dessert. They come out in bite size pieces smothered in powdered sugar and served with strawberry jam. I love the concept of the mini beignet pieces, but they were that spectacular in my book. The beignets weren’t as airy and fluffy as the kind I’m used to, but dipping them in the strawberry jam helped.

You also can’t beat the pricing here. Priced per pound, the crawfish were very reasonable and the restaurant itself is great for large parties. I have a new spot and cannot wait to go back for a few more pounds! I was also eyeballing their gumbo and jambalaya, can’t wait to give those dishes a try next time.

Chasin’ Tails Cajun Seafood and Bar

2200 N. Westmoreland St.

http://www.chasintailscrawfish.com/

703-538-2565

Hours of Operation: Mon-Sun 3pm-1:30am

Twitter Handle: @ChasinTailsCF

BY Kathleen Nixon
April 6, 2012
Falls Church Times Staff

The warm weather start to the spring has brought out many folks to the Falls Church Farmers Market and no one can be happier than the vendors. At the same time the questions start as to when will we see some of the summer time fruits and vegetables? This happens every year as the warmer weather starts and we are accustomed to seeing all kinds of out of season fruits in the supermarkets like strawberries in January. You will find some tomatoes in the Farmers Market as many vendors start tomatoes in their greenhouses. For now you will have to wait a bit for your vine ripened tomatoes, strawberries and stone fruit. Since the weather has been so warm the Falls Church Farmers Market will be opening earlier this year on April 14^th, but even before then some of the summer vendors are already part of the Farmers Market including are Clear Spring Creamery, and Sinplicity Catering.

There are some winter Farmers Market vendors who will not be returning for the summer season and you will want to catch them in the next two weeks, such as Cold Country Salmon which offers vacuum   packed salmon that is caught fresh by a father and son duo. You can purchase salmon now and shares of salmon for later similar to a CSA and they will be delivered at the end of the summer.

Some winter vendors have put on a serious marketing push to be able to come back in the summer and the competition has been fierce. Interesting tactics such as marketing flyers at stands to tell Farmers Market Director Howard Herman to let them stay or just telling customers to campaign the Director in person. The Farmers Market will be expanding some of its space to the sidewalk area along Park Avenue to accommodate the expansion of the market for a few, new vendors. The final list of new vendors is still being reviewed and there is an extensive waiting list. The biggest challenge is making sure that there is enough variety in the market to ensure good crowds for all the vendors to be successful. Which of the winter vendors would you like to see come back for the summer session?

The Farmer’s Market Chef program now in its fourth year will be returning on April 28^th with Farmer’s Market Chef favorite Tracy O’Grady from Willow. There will be monthly Farmers Market Chef demonstrations from April to November with some special programs including two educational programs. The first will be the Culinary Program from Falls Church High School in neighboring Fairfax County and the Culinary Program of DC Central Kitchen with the Kitchen Director Chef Rock of Hell’s Kitchen fame.

As gas prices continue to go up, so will the cost to the farmers to produce their goods and bring them to market. The same pain you are feeling at the gas pump they are feeling triple fold to produce the fruits, vegetables, dairy, meat and baked goods that you have been waiting for all winter.

There are times in which I feel it could be absolutely possible to be a vegetarian and then I remember how much I love meat, but there are those instances in which I have meals that are so satisfying I could renounce meat forever. This is one of those meals.

Lentils are the perfect balance of healthy and hearty. They are an excellent source of folic acid and potassium, and a good source of iron and phosphorus. They are high in protein ( 9g per 100 g), low in fat and calories (0.4g and 116 cal), moderately high in fiber (3.9g) and best of all low in cost. One 16 ounce bag of dried lentils, enough to feed 4 people with leftovers cost me $1.59. This dish can be served by itself with the added protein from the cheese or as a side dish with roasted fish such as salmon or even with roasted chicken. I think the richness from the cheese works so well with the creaminess from the lentils.

What is Burrata cheese? Burrata is a fresh Italian cheese, made from mozzarella and cream. The outer shell is solid mozzarella while the inside contains both mozzarella and cream, giving it an unusual, soft texture. It is amazing! Really, when I discovered Burrata a few years ago I felt like my life was forever changed. And yours will be too. Burrata is available at the Falls Church Farmers Market at the Blue Ridge Dairy stand.

Equipment: Large Dutch oven (similar to a Le Creuset)

2 Tbsp olive oil — $0.10
1 medium onion – small dice — $0.75
1 large carrot – small dice — $0.35
2 garlic cloves – smashed and chopped — $0.04
1 – 16 ounce bag dried green or black lentils (washed in a bowl of water) — $1.59
32 ounces chicken or vegetable stock — $1.83
2 Tbsp red wine vinegar — $0.08
2 tsp salt — $0.02
1 tsp freshly ground black pepper — $0.02

2 balls of Burrata cheese – sliced in half — $4.99

—————–
$9.77

Heat 2 tbsp of oil in Dutch oven on medium heat, add diced onion and sauté until translucent about 5 minutes. Add carrot and garlic and cook for an addition minute. Add lentils and cover with stock. Bring to a boil and then reduce heat to simmer (medium low) and cover with a lid. Cook lentils until tender about 1 hour. When lentils are finished cooking they should be creamy and liquid should be reduced but not completely gone. Season lentils after they are cooked. One of the biggest mistake people make when cooking legumes is seasoning them before they are cooked. The protein becomes tough and doesn’t cook properly. Finish with red wine vinegar. This gives the lentils a touch of acidity which is essential in achieving balance.

Spoon the lentils into bowls and serve with one half of Burrata per portion. Top each portion of Burrata with a drizzle of olive oil and salt and pepper.

Makes 4 large portions

This meal is vegetarian and gluten free. Remove the Burrata for a vegan and lactose free meal. Replace with roasted fish for a healthier lactose free option.

This past week, I stepped outside before the dawn had fully sprung. A blanket of misty fog clung to the frosted ground; but, slowly the shroud of damp dew began rising, as if lifting her skirts to reveal the tender young grass springing, the yellow daffodil petals yawning, and the purple crocus peeking open for its first glimpse of fluxing seasons. I thought for a moment how everything springs forward, ascending upwards toward a new morning light. I inhaled deeply the scents of fresh morn, waiting to exhale my hopeful pondering: spring has sprung!

The dormant land awakens to new life; and with it a farmer’s bounty and a wine lover’s new adventure into a world painted verdant green. Spring green demands a color descriptor all of its own, somewhere on the verge of light green splashed with yellow highlights, conjuring nascent freshness. In the wine world, this verdant green translates into wines such as Gruner Veltliner, Sauvignon Blanc, and possibly even Pinot Gris or Torrentes. In the food world, ramps, artichokes, fava beans, and asparagus take their place once again on the spring menu.

So if we marry the wine and food world, a story unfolds of delicious pairings waiting to molt the winter senses. The trick is not slipping into wines that are too green just yet. Now is not the time for spritzy Vinho Verdes stacked high at Whole Foods in the zenith of summer, or Pinot Grigios flavored with fresh squeezed lime and lemon. This tender time between seasons calls for a wine that dons plumes of finesse and voluptuous notes of ripe stone fruits. Sauvignon Blanc strikes us with stiletto heels of acidity, tart flavors of grapefruit, and that reminiscent sniff of freshly cut hay. Thus, Sauvignon Blanc proves not the perfect fit. Rather, the way to go this time of year is with a wine that harnesses split personalities. The appropriate bride for this marriage would be the stoic grape from Austria, Grüner Veltliner, pronounced with a ringing Austrian accent: Velt-LEEN-er.

The beauty of Grüner Veltliner is that it has sprung all over the grocery store shelves and at your local vintner shops. This bride flirts with numerous of styles. The Grüner grapes produce wines of light, dainty bodies to full-fledged, voluminous curves. A tell-tale sign when Grüner rests in your glass is the slight presence of dissolved CO2. Surprisingly, the sensation of spritz is not passed on to your palate. Rather, this wine can deliver sensations of a world renowned white burgundy (aka fancy Chardonnay from France) unfolding myriads of richness and texture that can age in bottle for a decade or more. Most importantly, for these tender times, Grüner pairs with meat, yes, red meat; in addition to fish and green vegetables.

So, the next time you visit the Farmer’s market or your local grocer, search for the ingredients to make an asparagus frittata and spring for a Grüner Veltliner. Or better yet, make a meal with heirloom beans and edamame. Check out this amazing farmer’s website, Rancho Gordo, who is preserving the genetic line of heritage beans in Napa Valley http://www.ranchogordo.com/html/v_beans.htm. Plant these babies in your spring garden and spare them from extinction. You will reap the benefits tenfold in flavor, texture, and freshness. Plus, the groo-vee way to experience beans is with a velvety Velt-LEEN-er. More food thoughts with Grüner could be unique deviled egg preparations for your spring brunch table—make ‘em with bacon, cheese, curry, or the tried-and-true paprika.

Some tip top suggestions to seek out (but, don’t let the Austrian wine label scare you off!):

Hirtzberger, Smaragd Honivogl

Knoll, Smaragd Schütt

F X Pichler, Smaragd Kellerberg

Prager, Smaragd Achleiten

Bründlmayer, Käferberg

Loimer, Spiegel Alte Reben

Steininger, Kamptal

Christianna Sargent
Certified Sommelier
Advanced Certificate–
Wine & Spirits Education Trust
Association of Italian Sommeliers
French Wine Scholar
talesofasommelier.blogspot.com